India was Vera Wang's starting point for Spring. She isn't alone. Other designers have fallen for the tunic-over-pants look and diaphanous layers this week. Literal references weren't really Wang's focus, though. Rather, what she had to offer were textures, prints, and colors—and plenty of them. The results were sumptuous.

The first quarter of the collection was all white: The show started with an almost plain cotton cutaway jacket and a cotton voile dancing skirt. A V-neck shift was covered shoulder to hem in dense soutache embroidery. Another look delivered surface appeal via lace jacquard, guipure, and cotton eyelet. But when the color came in, it came in strong: azure blue, navy, amethyst, cypress green, chartreuse, culminating in gold.

Wang was in mix mode today, pairing a narrow tunic embroidered in gold bullion with a swirling skirt in a wallpaper print, or teaming a beaded boy tank with brocade Bermuda shorts. Still, the prettiest numbers in the show were the sleeveless sheaths in Chantilly lace—utterly simple but bejeweled at the waist or on the shoulders. Manhattan or Mumbai—they'll play anywhere.