September 14, 2012 London
Willow pushed her sheer theme hard this season, but not always to great effect. There were too many garments that just looked shapeless, though the non-silhouette silhouette worked better when the fabric itself was intriguing. To wit, the luminescent sheer material from couture textile house Jakob Schlaepfer: Unbelievably fine and incredibly cool, it made the models in the two show-closing looks appear as though they were emerging out of the shimmering desert heat. Those closing looks were helped, too, by the fact that the dresses worn beneath the Schlaepfer sheer were interesting—new takes on Willow's characteristic articulated body-con, with hand-embroidered copper sequins creating a tubular effect. All in all, though, this collection felt a little unfocused, as though Willow had addressed herself to tuning up the various signatures of her brand at the expense of really developing her best ideas.