June 30, 2013 Paris
Mattiussi loves the places where worlds collide: airports, last season's train-car presentation. It's a clever way of allowing sales-y breadth into the show, which otherwise might look a bit grab bag. Though the collection's dominant feeling doesn't change much season to season, he is introducing new categories (here, sunglasses and sneakers) and playing to his strengths. He scored a very palpable hit with the bird prints from his Spring collection, which have been appearing so widely you wonder if birding hobbyists have been thrown off their games; so the tropical botanical prints here seem tailored to continue the trend. They got at the slightly wilder, wackier Ami man brought out this season. "A bit more fun," Mattiussi said. Fun is a key part of Ami's métier, and attending one of the label's chaotic standing-room-only presentations reminds you that his friends number in the thousands. With a growing business, a spot on the official calendar, and a powerhouse production firm behind the label, the feeling lingers that worlds may not need to collide as literally as this. But airport crankiness didn't, ultimately, define the mood, even for the weary travelers coming to the end of their three weeks of fashion journeying. It's heartening to see Paris, which can be inhospitable to young designers striking out on their own, rally to support a hometown hero.