June 28, 2013 Paris
Such completism is a provocatively sophisticated notion in menswear. Even so, Sartori imagines that, at some point, bespoke will make up a good 10 percent of Berluti's business. But tonight was about the other 90 percent. And, given Berluti's pitch for the uppermost stratum of the luxury market, there were surprises—first and foremost, how casual many of the pieces felt. Sartori said he'd been looking at French workers' uniforms. The cloth co-relative was a cotton drill made from a Japanese indigo cotton yarn that had been bleached before being woven and dyed. It was turned into intensely toned cotton suits that looked like the essence of Sartori's take on the formal/casual connection. The perfect match was the new two-tone shoe, inspired by French municipal workers of the mid-twentieth century.
But Sartori was also proposing a new two-piece suit—a five-button waistcoat with narrow trousers—that was straight out of a vintage Italian movie. Both pants and waistcoats were cut a little short, which left a very funky few inches of shirt showing round the waistband. Above the waist, Sartori was feeling a hybrid shirt-jacket. He insisted this piece had become the center of his wardrobe, though tonight he'd dressed in a hyper-tailored double-breasted suit whose suppressed waist allowed not a millimeter of spare tire. He was, as ever, the best advertisement for his own brand.