's collections for men can't help but look like something of an afterthought when ranked against the often-startling breadth of his womenswear. It's an impression he would seem to be compounding by transposing elements from the women's collections in a more basic way. But you can't shortchange Kane over this. As his Spring menswear confirmed, a more "basic" approach to the substance of his womenswear actually yielded a strikingly graphic variant on it. Here, the wire framework of early computer imaging was reproduced not in lace but in jersey and intarsia knits. Stark wire heads were right off the sleeve of a Kraftwerk greatest-hits package some years back. A luminous wire landscape undulated eerily across a matching trio of coat, shirt, and shorts. Head and landscape merged in what looked like a pattern of isobars that resolved itself into a huge face. If you're looking to wear a techno-shaman on your chest next spring, Kane's your man.
Still, it's inescapable that there is something pretty elementary about Kane's clothes for men. Tees, sweats, shorts, slacks—that's about it. He began to address the shortfall by adding a couple of tailored pieces for Spring, but it's pretty obvious where the sales action is going to be when next season rolls around.