June 18, 2013 London
Grant roamed far and wide, from the fabulous foppishness of Savile Row's dandy tailors Michael Fish and Tommy Nutter, to the elongated flair of the teddy boys, to acidic ravewear, to David Attenborough's nature programs, to the ethnic garb of his East End neighborhood: salwar kameez, kurtas, and all. "The joy of dressing"—that was something else Grant wanted to capture. It was so anti-rules that it ended up being something like the antithesis of the Beau Brummel rigor that gave birth to Savile Row and suits and menswear conventions—and E. Tautz, for that matter—as we understand them now. For God's sake, he even paired eye-popping espadrilles with black socks!
Grant is a bit of an archivist, but here he started with an Edwardian suit pattern and wove threads of fluoro into the fabric. He'd seen some kid on the tube out east in a school uniform with a fluoro pinstripe. ("Rather insane," he noted approvingly.) Fearlessly prodding the hybrid, Grant also married a kimono and a trench, for your next night out in an opium den. And finally, to remind us of just how strange the trip he'd taken us on really was, he took his bow dressed like your favorite headmaster.