June 28, 2013 Paris
In fact, the collection was youthful from top (two-tone fedora baseball caps by Stephen Jones) to toe (heavy creepers varnished like blue-black nail polish and rimmed with chain link to emphasize the thick soles). Some of the shoes were topped with spring-loaded clip embellishments instead of, say, a humdrum tassel; they should be renamed and trademarked as clip-clops.
Galliano men's line, more often than not, has been defiantly ungentlemanly. But this collection, with its shattered geometric and arrow-print cabans, techno fabrics, and sportswear emphasis paved a new direction for the brand—and proves that Gaytten can compete with the youngbloods.
Crucially, he's not lost his grasp on tailoring; all those double layers were built-in to avoid bulk (because most wearers won't have the physique of a 16-year-old). Of all the special effects, the strongest consisted of a paper-thin leather grid of punched circles laid atop an electric-yellow backdrop that appeared on blazer and backpack alike. It pulsed like the music these boys would be listening to had Gaytten designed headphones. Perhaps next season.