Street and suit, the two poles of menswear, are forever getting mixed at the men's shows. The mischievous impulse is too strong. So it was at Les Hommes. "We wanted to reexplore all the different iconic pieces of menswear," explained Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, "and on top of that, merge with something new, from street style: the T-shirt and the bomber. We wanted to make it a formal essential in the wardrobe."

They layered leather T-shirts into suits, leather bomber jackets over shirts and ties, and slicked the tails of jackets with skin. Elsewhere, lilies bloomed over suits, jackets, and sweaters, undercutting the more sober silhouettes. In recent seasons, Les Hommes has followed its more avant-garde instincts a bit too far afield. Spring marked a happy return to a place of greater comfort: dark, slick tailoring that's made fans like Karl Lagerfeld. He's often worn it to take his runway bows. And so did Notte and Vandebosch. Designer knows best.