There are no side projects in the Opening Ceremony universe. Despite commitments that would fell a cadre of multitaskers multitasking, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim manage to continually refine even the most peripheral projects in their empire. You might think that with an increasingly multinational empire of retail stores (New York, L.A., Tokyo, London) and their duties as creative directors of Kenzo, they might be content to keep their house brand quiet on the sidelines. But the Opening Ceremony menswear collection has come a long way since its humble, hoodie-filled beginnings, and it's already carried in nearly 200 stores across the globe, not counting their own. So perhaps it was inevitable that it would come up for its turn in the spotlight with promises from Leon and Lim to up the fashion quotient.

That's not to say OC has strayed from its sporty beginnings. The stuff of its Spring collection is steadfastly sporty: shorts and sweats, tees and cargos, sneakers and slip-ons. There's a defiant slouch to it all, like the droopy pocket tees that look as if they'd been stretched on the rack. But there's also more ambition throughout, most clearly evident in the shimmery jacquards adapted from Korean pojagi wrapping fabrics. (A recent trip to visit Lim's family in Korea gave the spark.) The duo showed it as a total look—shirt, shorts, and jacket—but the car-length coat version stuck in memory's craw. Which made you notice that outerwear, a tough category, was getting some good attention. A raglan-sleeve bomber and pilot-inspired leather jacket stood out as well.