August 14, 2013 New York
Ironically, the more separate the lines become, the freer they seem to be to borrow from one another. Purple Label, ever the home of extravagant suiting and formalwear, had plenty of it on show, from a shawl-collared dinner jacket to Wall Street-ish pinstriped suits, but its sportswear collection was expanded like never before. What's more, it came in brighter colors more often found at Polo. And here, as throughout all of the lines, a desert motif reigned, in suede sahariennes, linen trousers, and the requisite $90,000 full-croc jacket.
Black Label had its usual dark suiting, but leavened with weathered denim, styled with sherbet-bright sweaters, and generally with a more casual air—"where sportswear and haberdashery come together," the company calls it.
At Polo, collegiate prep still rules, right down to the P-knit letter sweater. But here it got a buzzy jolt of color, in distressed chinos and shoulder-slung cable-knit sweaters, plus a dose of Lauren's Southwestern yen, thanks to a free hand with serape prints.