June 29, 2013 Paris
This season, she turned her attention to traditional menswear patterns and to florals. Both are well-worn territory, but Abe's a dab hand. She printed houndstooth and Prince of Wales on nylon jackets and shirts, layering them to glossy, twinset effect. College-scarf stripes, picked out in grosgrain, were great on a hooded parka, layered over a matching sweatshirt. And Abe's jacquard florals, densely packed together on dark, neutral colors, took on a camouflage effect. Even the simplest pieces, like a two-tone polo that suggested a shirt collar flapping over a sweater, had a little spark. Abe doesn't bother with themes, backstories, or explanations. Nor does she come in from Japan for the show. The clothes speak for themselves. It's to their credit that they tell their story convincingly, even—maybe especially—at 10x zoom.