For Chitose Abe's Sacai presentation, she set up a series of high-def cameras and trained them on the models as they ascended their gallery plinths. On screens behind them, details of their outfits appeared: a binocular swoop onto hems and cuffs, fabrics, and the rubber-painted desert boots (by Clarks, because who improves on those?) that she customized for the show. It's not every designer whose work stands up to that level of scrutiny, but Sacai thrives in the close-up. Her odd combinations of fibers, patterns, even genres of clothing—she's famous for shirts that end with panels of drawstring-laced nylon, like windbreakers—can't be called subtle, and yet, like a magic trick, you find yourself staring, trying to see how they work.

This season, she turned her attention to traditional menswear patterns and to florals. Both are well-worn territory, but Abe's a dab hand. She printed houndstooth and Prince of Wales on nylon jackets and shirts, layering them to glossy, twinset effect. College-scarf stripes, picked out in grosgrain, were great on a hooded parka, layered over a matching sweatshirt. And Abe's jacquard florals, densely packed together on dark, neutral colors, took on a camouflage effect. Even the simplest pieces, like a two-tone polo that suggested a shirt collar flapping over a sweater, had a little spark. Abe doesn't bother with themes, backstories, or explanations. Nor does she come in from Japan for the show. The clothes speak for themselves. It's to their credit that they tell their story convincingly, even—maybe especially—at 10x zoom.