September 28, 2013 Paris
This collection marked an explicit return to the brand's roots, in various ways: There was an emphasis on denim and on workwear-inspired styles, and more generally, the collection was very, very Swedish. Indeed, its starting point, according to Johansson, was the poem "Till Havs," as performed by the Swedish opera singer Jussi Björling; showgoers today were treated to a very galvanizing rendition of the tune. And then they were treated to a fast-paced défilé of the most accessible looks Acne has shown in a while. There's going to be a sizable constituency for this season's white laser-cut leather pieces, for instance, not to mention the oversize button-downs, elasticized bustiers, and tonal denim. "Till Havs" translates as "At Sea," and the collection thus reflected a mariner theme, with lots of seafaring stripes and naval peacoat styles; in a puckish touch, there were also tiny anchor-shaped embellishments. Johansson hasn't jettisoned his taste for largeness entirely: There were a handful of webbed knits with sleeves that extended past the fingertips, for example. But in general, this collection felt refreshingly measured. The only complaint here, really, was that Johansson pursued a few too many ideas; a stiff edit would have made this a stronger outing. Still, the ship has righted itself.