has always been known for a punky aesthetic, but he's been cleaning up his act the past few seasons, and Spring felt decidedly grown-up and polished while still maintaining a subversive edge. Backstage before his show, the Brazilian designer explained that he "built the clothing by piecing together bands of fabric cut on different angles to flatter different parts of the body." The splicing technique added deconstructed appeal to the opening series of broken-stripe looks cut from couture-grade, heavy double satin, which Herchcovitch whipped into a rash guard-esque crop top and matching pencil skirt with frayed chiffon peeking out at the hemline. The designer experimented with a variety of silhouettes, including on-trend minidresses and slim cropped trousers with sheer overskirts. His most novel proposition was tank tops with lightweight coats attached to the straps, which fluttered like capes behind the models as they walked. Elsewhere, Herchcovitch mashed up zebra stripes and black lace on perfecto jacket-inspired dresses and re-created the same exotic pattern with caviar beading on tough leather sheaths. The lineup felt somewhat somber compared to many of the more uplifting shows so far this week, but Herchcovitch has always been a bit of a dark horse.