September 09, 2013 New York
Armas' elevated workout aesthetic was most successful in a series of copper pieces. He used metallic cupro to fashion some endlessly cool cropped track pants (which he paired with a light navy and gray viscose-raglan-blend baseball tee) and also applied it as the trim on a wonderfully draped twist top, which he showed with fluid white shorts. Elsewhere, the references were a bit too literal. The designer's yin-yang prints, while very nineties, felt dated, as did some of his neon-accented Sporty Spice-ready jacquard wares.
Some of the best pieces this season drew heavily upon the menswear skills for which Armas is known. A dark gray pinstripe cotton bevel dress will definitely appeal to his city girl on the go, and a fluid white rayon shawl frock with a lapel-detail neckline fused downtown bohemia and power dressing. The rubber-soled white leather crop boots—a collaboration with Mamut—were also a great touch. Armas is on the right track, thinking about functionality and what real women need, but he would be wise to balance that practicality with more of the fantasy that women want.