September 26, 2013 Paris
Bui was smart, though, to hedge her bets with jackets. The least classic came cropped and boxy; oversized and sans sleeves; rounded and paneled in leather; or long, pleated, and worn as a shoulder cape. The designer established early on in her career that she knows how to cut a pant—here, she shifted her skills upward and succeeded.
In the last quarter, Bui showed two rubber toppers printed with a red engraved flora print, followed by a poppy-red organza suit that dictated a looser fit and benefited from a higher waist. The digression felt odd, if only because it was so short lived. The footwear, meanwhile, stayed entirely fixed on oxfords vented to resemble sandals, or laceless white versions tipped in metal bits to catch the light. By eschewing heels, Bui altered the spirit of her line more radically than with her focus on the humble blue jean. Her signature stilettos may yet appear by the time the collection hits stores, but on the runway, at least, these steps pushed her brand forward.