September 15, 2013 London
This collection did not disappoint. Casasola brings an authentic refinement to her work; she's incapable of producing a look that seems trashy. She's also a careful and inventive technician, and her clothes are always finessed down to the nth detail. Where she's struggled, at times, is with incorporating a sense of ease and buoyancy; the signature Casasola look is very controlled. That was true of the ensembles in this latest collection, but the leap here was the atmosphere of lightness. Casasola had considered her clothes, but not to the point where they came off mannered; meanwhile, she mitigated the potential frigidity of the collection's sculptural and geometric aspects by working with sheer, gossamer organzas and fluid shapes. After the show, Casasola said she was bouncing off the work of the late Brazilian sculptor Lygia Clark this season, and these soigné clothes did seem to capture both the discipline and the sensuality of Clark's constructivist forms. Nicely done.