Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs make for mighty good mistresses of discipline. This season, the CFDA/Vogue
finalists took inspiration from straitjackets, and thus did binding, belting, and strapping make their way into the brand's idiom. But that S&M-inflected discipline was less compelling than the design discipline at work here: This was an exceedingly focused collection, and it considerably elevated the trademark Cushnie et Ochs
vixenish look. As a case in point, consider the black viscose bustier top with a reverse halter neckline, which the designers showed with a pair of matching sharply cut, buckle-detailed pants. The look was sexy in a very high-end way, and the conceptual elements were applied with (ahem) restraint. The same went for a fluid, buckle-detailed strapless gown, and the body-con dress strapped by elastic. (The show-opening one on Karlie Kloss looked particularly good, but then, it would.) Perhaps the most interesting developments here, though, were the swimsuits, a natural brand extension for Cushnie et Ochs, and the seamless knits. The latter made for an apropos new medium for the brand's vocabulary of cutouts and skintight-ness. Very slick, girls. Very slick.