September 25, 2013 Paris
You can guarantee that Lemaire's will be the only show notes that wrap Meryl Streep and the Vietcong in the same blanket this season—or any other, for that matter. But Streep's patrician WASP-iness and the Vietcong's practical pajamas happily coexisted on Lemaire's catwalk. The fantasy of his presentation combined the elegance of a Southeast Asian colonial idyll (a floaty, feather-printed tea dress) with the same kind of pragmatic French sophistication (trench insouciantly thrown over shoulders) that illuminated his last collection for Hermès. There was still the signature dash of the East in the kurta-over-pants look that is a Lemaire favorite. And one thing that was clearer than ever is how artfully Lemaire repurposes the same tightly edited handful of ingredients; the way, for instance, that the check of a coat lining reappeared as a scarf worn casually as a halter-style top.