A long-planned vacation to Mexico's Isla Mujeres provided Christian Siriano with just the right inspiration to build his Spring collection. "There was something so cool about the neon-painted houses and the women selling handwoven baskets in tiny markets," the designer said backstage before his runway show.

To bring relaxed Mexico to his typically formal collection, Siriano incorporated basket-inspired raffia into several looks. A chiffon circle dress was decorated with rose-and-cream French knot raffia; a jacket and miniskirt combo was made of straw in a rainbow of colors. Although formalwear remains the crux of Siriano's brand, these daytime looks proved that he is capable of making all-occasion clothes. While some of the pieces were still a bit overdone—there were a few too many flounces on blouses and day dresses—Siriano's work is certainly improving in the category.

But the major moment was left for the gowns. Siriano went with a garden party theme, offering floaty numbers in celadon and coral, adorned with floral appliqués. They were the most sophisticated he's done. "My customer asked for color, so I gave it to her," he said. Just proves that the customer is indeed always right.