Creatures of the Wind
September 05, 2013 New York
Gabier and Peters dubbed the collection Hail Hyperborea, a paradise, according to Greek mythology, where the sun shone 24 hours a day and everyone lived forever. The patchworking and color-blocking they've been working on for at least a year now were a central focus here, but rendered in brighter colors (cranberry and blush pink looked pretty together), and the results felt cheerier than usual. The intimate photographs that outsider artist Eugene von Bruenchenhein took of his wife, Marie, (which made a splash this summer at the Venice Biennale) were another inspiration point, and they seem to have informed the collection's retro, 1940s, western silhouettes.
A few of those pieces—the boxy jackets with full, elbow-length sleeves and a color-blocked waitress dress come to mind—seemed frozen in time. But sporty touches like basketball shorts and high-tech developments including metal knit sweaters gave the whole show a modern feel. Separates were a big part of the story: silk lamé camp shirts, tuxedo trousers, embroidered circle skirts, and pencils. It was a dress, though, that really showed off Gabier and Peters' know-how. Paneled together from black technical double mesh and pink paper nylon, it was a minor feat of engineering. Best of all was the finale, a full, three-quarter-length wrap dress cinched with a bustier, dripping in "destroyed flower embroidery." Positively hyperborean.