A season ago, Damir Doma's collection felt dour. But over the course of the summer, he made a correction. Backstage, he reported that his trip to Florence's Pitti trade show, where he was invited to present his Resort collection, was a fairly life-affirming rite of passage. Apparently, he's still basking in the afterglow. For Spring, he displayed a renewed interest in decoration and color, and they warmed up his familiar asceticism.

Doma started off with all-white looks in graphic lines. A cotton dress sliced diagonally down the front revealed the all-in-one underneath, while a horizontal vent on the back of a crisp sleeveless jacket exposed a flash of skin. Khaki dresses, meanwhile, were built from the elements of trenchcoats. Business as usual for Doma. But then came the polka dots. Printing them would've proved too heavy-handed, so instead he laser-cut them, adding a sense of feminine froth to everything from boxy linen T-shirts to skirts whipped up in silk plissé.

The show came alive when Doma injected color. Tiger-lily orange looked particularly strong paired with a black and white check, although bright yellow also resonated. He came back to a trio of little black dresses at the end, but he kept them light with the polka dots or with an asymmetric sleeve. A much improved effort.