September 09, 2013 New York
She had the fundamentals of a beautiful lineup—one that felt signature Donna: languid dresses slung with leather belts at the hips, softly constructed coats and jackets that slipped on like a robe, an inviting palette of sea blues and warm, sunbaked browns. But she took a wrong turn somewhere along the way. Her program notes described the collection as a quest: "How to turn the sensuality and ease of a hand-blocked scarf into a chic urban wardrobe of day into night pieces," they said. But block prints are better in small quantities. On a silk caftan shirt and matching stretch georgette wrap skirt, they overwhelmed. Ditto goes for the printed pajama pants paired with a handwoven suede jacket trailing fringe to the knees. The enormous crushed leather hats didn't help her cause, although the large pendants on leather cords looked new and cool.
For the most part, Karan swapped prints for solid colors on her evening dresses, and the show ended on an up note. Kati Nescher's spice and terra-cotta halter gown was knockout.