If you've nailed down a formula and it really works, then best leave it alone—right? Wrong, according to David Koma, who keeps adding to and tweaking his body-con thing—a silhouette that has earned him fans including Naomi Campbell and Maria Sharapova.

For Spring, Koma turned his eye to the ancient Japanese martial art of kyudo. The first looks to come out were in rigorous black and white bonded silk with leather-panel neck details, asymmetrical hems, and harness details. No, this wasn't Fifty Shades of Grey bondage stuff, though it might be easy to jump to that conclusion. The harness is a feature of the kyudo uniform; it serves as armor.

Highlights here included black and nude pleated skater skirts, and dresses with triangular inserts at the torso that made the waist seem smaller, as well as some fantastic peg-leg trousers with huge rectangular pocket details, and loose leather jackets modeled after the kyudo uniform. But Koma really caught everyone's attention with a series of blue looks; powder blue and deep blue were especially winning mixed together on dresses. Then came the prints: Koma doesn't do prints much, but what he did offer—a riveting series of stripes that were reminiscent of the Japanese tie-dye material called shibori—looked great. In fact, given just how beautiful his prints were, we'd say it's time for Koma to do more of them.