thinks big. But he can also think small. Olowu's latest collection found him exploring volume, with an emphasis on dramatic, variously patchworked or embellished cape coats and jackets. Much as you'd expect, these pieces had force. But the real charm of this collection was its easygoing spirit, and that derived from the less oracular looks—the ones that compelled you via subtle gestures. A case in point was Olowu's camisoles: As he explained, he set himself the task this season of making the perfect cami—one not too bare, or too short, or too long, that could be worn layered or on its own, and that had a bias-cut fit that just brushed the body. Well…job done. Elsewhere, Olowu scored with his double-hem print dresses, and with pieces in a seventies-style check, and with peasantlike cotton skirts and frocks detailed with contrasting Austrian lace. There was a kind of bohemian looseness here, minus any overt homage to the stereotypically "bohemian." Olowu is too deep a thinker for that; he knows what it is to be iconoclastic.