Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear
September 10, 2013 New York
After aiming for a more youthful audience in recent seasons, for Spring, Escada refocused on its core clientele of mature women who wouldn't be caught dead in a crop top. Still, the Escada gal isn't opposed to showing some skin, and the latest lineup played up shoulders as the new erogenous zone with one-shouldered caftan dresses, strapless evening gowns, and embellished cocktail sheaths with rippling cascades down one side. Creating a sense of escapism is a continual goal for creative director Daniel Wingate and co., and they achieved that here with bold prints including blown-up florals, wild zebra stripes, giraffe spots, and playful pineapple motifs that added a graphic pop to flattering cap-sleeve dresses, easy tunics, and double-knit, fit-and-flare frocks. A tailored suit featuring an abstract wave pattern was a standout, as was the floaty finale maxi dress with rope straps, which would work as both a poolside cover-up and a party-ready look for a night on the town. Other highlights included specialty leather pieces like a cropped-sleeve car coat and an A-line shift featuring perforated details achieved by strategically blasting high-pressure water, not the usual laser-cutting. It'd be nice to see more envelope-pushing like that from Escada moving forward.