Emilia Wickstead has always been known for her feminine touch and a fresh color palette. Her charming aesthetic has won her a devoted fan base, most notably the Duchess of Cambridge. Her gorgeous colors were out in force today: Neapolitan-ice-cream hues appeared on a cotton-and-silk sheath, a finely executed bandeau jumpsuit came in a bright tomato red honeycomb-effect fabric, and tangerine and strawberry pink were especially lovely on striped dresses that she left unlined to emphasize their lightness. There was a lot of sweeping drama here. Both the duchess and Wickstead have recently had babies, perhaps explaining the more forgiving silhouette.

All pretty, but also pretty standard stuff. Then Wickstead shifted gears, sending out a creamy white dress with a brilliantly executed fan-pleated detail on the back. It was noteworthy on its own, until Wickstead informed us backstage that it was made from denim. To make the stuff of jeans look like structured silk takes real talent.

Wickstead said she was inspired by the Memphis blues this season, and there were strains of Dusty Springfield's "Son of a Preacher Man" on the speakers. It may not be the duchess' cup of tea, but the piano and musical-notes print that appeared on a little strapless dress and a top and matching culottes made for a fun, flirty change of tempo. Nice to see this designer move beyond her comfort zone.