is known for uniquely romantic designs that, more often than not, successfully render his medieval and Victorian fashion influences modern. This season, Graham found himself "a little obsessed with Willa Cather and My Antonia,
" and envisioned a woman who is a bit more ladylike than usual. "She's done but undone all at once," he said at a preview in his Tribeca store. The new lineup included several of the designer's signature pieces, including vintage-y apron dresses, petticoats, slips, and delicate nylon mesh underpinnings embellished with jet beading—all of which have endless layering possibilities. Graham mixed those standbys (which he also reinterprets for his lower-priced Anagram line) with standout items such as a cropped puff-sleeve jacket featuring a digital damask print, as well as a cool shrunken biker patchworked with pieces of that same tapestry fabric. Elsewhere, an Empire-waist dress with a woven leather bodice and satin linen skirt also nicely balanced the opposing forces of old and new, and tough and feminine, in play here.