Can we go ahead and anoint Sofia Sizzi the queen of the jumpsuit now? For whatever reason, the Giulietta designer has a real knack for that garment, and this season she turned out her best versions yet: strapless, culotte-length jumpsuits that came in cherry red and color-blocked white and black. Dead chic, they were. And most days, clothes don't have to accomplish anything more than that. This collection was a very good case study in the positive effects of a designer setting her sights neither too high nor too low. Sizzi didn't aim to challenge, but she wasn't content to bore, either, and so she found ways to make her very polished clothes gently surprising.

The print here, for instance, was a smatter of smudge marks, really, applied via screen; both the pattern and the process served to introduce an element of rawness. Elsewhere, Sizzi innovated an intriguing construction for some of her pleated skirts and dresses—a few of them featured areas crisscrossed by diamond-shaped blocks of contrasting color. (Optical graphics have shown up on more than a few runways so far this season, but Sizzi has a smart, measured take on the aesthetic; you could even argue that the graphic has replaced the 1960s as the defining Giulietta signature.) All in all, this show found Sizzi pushing herself in an interesting way—she focused on smaller gestures in order to make a stronger statement.