September 10, 2013 New York
The show began with a series of stark white looks, which had the feeling of tennis gear without being too literal. The final all-white number, a cocoon dress, hinted at what was to come with its green exposed zipper going up the back. From there, Gurung moved on to fuchsia—the best piece in that set was an A-line coat with a swingy wing back—and then to a grassy green, which he called Verdant. That particular passage included a zip-front cropped jacket paired with a high-waisted, pegged-leg trouser: a new kind of suit.
There were holographic moments, too, which added a nineties-raver element to the mix. But instead of using holographic leather that often looks "costumey," as Gurung put it, he printed iridescent metallics onto cotton: A silver foil was applied to a honeycomb-stitched sweater, and a raglan-sleeve dress was given an iridescent stamp.
Gurung ended on a pastel note, offering shift dresses in lavender and mint, embellished with his signature graphic paillettes. With this collection, ICB might finally be a brand that can stand on its own, as Gurung so badly wants. But there's no denying that it's all owed to him.