Issa is still in between creative directors. Blue Farrier, formerly of Chloé and Stella McCartney, will make her big reveal for pre-fall. The mandate for the label's in-house design team this season was simply to stay the ship. The good news is that they expanded the repertoire a bit, but think baby steps rather than bold leaps.

Ancient Egypt was Spring's starting point, and it came through in the Eye of Horus, an ancient Egyptian symbol of protection. The eye print turned up on a long caftan as well as on a ribbed jacquard skater dress, which, believe it or not, is the brand's top seller, even over the Kate Middleton engagement frock. A jeweled neckline that mimicked the headdresses of the pharaohs channeled Ramses and Nefertiti in The Ten Commandments, while scarab, sphinx, and snake prints carried the theme through. Peridot, coral, lapis, and garnet, plus gold Lurex threading that worked particularly well on a series of dresses, were everywhere. In that sense, it was classic Issa: a riot of joyous colors.

Where the collection advanced was in a simple lace shift dress in a fascinatingly sturdy waxed thread, and a series of appealing looks in cotton piqué. A new wrap blouse is likely to appeal to fans, as will an uncomplicated shorts and top set that screamed for a sunny destination and a mai tai. The Issa client remains a sun-seeking socialite, traveling to the brightest of international hot spots. This was a safe collection with a few new bells and whistles to keep it interesting. We'll have to wait for Farrier's debut to see if the Issa girl becomes more than just a one-dimensional hedonist.