While she was vacationing in Patmos this summer, Jill Stuart found herself "thinking about rock stars' girlfriends—particularly ones from the seventies—on holiday, and then they go back to the city and put on a leather skirt," she said backstage after her Spring runway show today. With that in mind, Stuart conjured up a modern-day Marianne Faithfull—perhaps a cool, carefree girl like Lily Aldridge—lounging beachside in a thigh-grazing embroidered caftan or a diagonal-striped terry pullover tossed over her bikini. At night, she'd slip into a flirty mesh baby doll, smudge her eyes with kohl, and bound out for a concert or soirée.

While Stuart worked mostly in signature feminine fabrications like eyelet lace and appliquéd organza, the silhouettes here were definitely sexed up—and occasionally a tad too suggestive. Gauzy bold-shouldered crop tops (yes, that trend is still going full speed this season) were paired with kicky miniskirts, and polished denim pieces including a mod shift felt more street-ready than most of Stuart's signature sweet wares. On the sultrier side of the spectrum, several frocks that were both super-short and super-sheer weren't exactly the kind of thing you'd wear to dinner at your boyfriend's parents' house. Ditto goes for a little black leather dress with a plunging-to-the-sternum neckline, particularly when worn with towering wooden-wedge heels. Those naughtier numbers aside, the lineup successfully presented modern ideas to Stuart's contemporary, fashion-forward customer.