The young women of the 1975 Australian cult flick Picnic at Hanging Rock were Jenny Packham's Spring muses. "Our mood board was already together, and it reminded us of the film," Packham said backstage at her Lincoln Center runway show. "It just had the right feeling." Set in an Edwardian boarding school, the film's period costumes were cast in the glow of seventies celluloid. To give off that vibe, Packham combined high necks with prairie silhouettes, and collar embellishments with warm colors like rust, burgundy, and blush pink.

Packham is a master at beading, and a taupe chiffon minidress adorned with tiny pink rosette embellishments—as well as multiple crystal-covered gowns in celadon, chartreuse, and powder blue—showed off that talent. But it was the less glitzy looks that really shone, including an easy-elegant burgundy-plaid shirtdress with a ball-gown skirt, and several halterneck numbers in pleated chiffon, both short and long. A pink pussy-bow gown, which hit right above the ankle, was as striking—and glamorous—as anything with a thousand sequins.

It was good that Packham went for a bit of new, because as pretty as her beaded dresses are, they don't change much from season to season. It was nice to see that she's capable of more.