Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear
September 13, 2013 London
This season, Jean-Pierre Braganza found inspiration in the way his daughter and her friends wear their school uniforms just so—everything a little off, a calculated insouciance. If that reference sounds a little matter-of-fact for Braganza, whose collections always have a fantasy-novel quality to them, well, don't fret: There were a Möbius strip-inspired print and a raven motif meant to invoke the trickster/creator avatar of native Canadian mythology. So this was a Jean-Pierre Braganza joint, for sure. But the schoolgirl element did introduce a sense of lightness and sweetness that felt fresh for this designer; the mere presence of baby pink came as a shock. Ditto the lace, and the low-slung trousers with a sporty mien. And the schoolgirls also brought forth this collection's most interesting and most emphasized idea, which was a way of folding garments closed, at an angle, that conjured exactly the studied nonchalance of a teenager off-tying her sweater. A graphic black-and-white top carried the technique best. Eventually, though, the collection drifted; the folding technique was somewhat overused, and the gray and red "Möbius" jacquards came in silhouettes that looked out of place here and more than a little tired. All in all, though, it was nice to see Braganza experimenting with a different energy.