From a distance, this Katie Eary
collection looked awfully frothy: whorls of red and pink, lots of flounced, diaphanous silk. Also, it was basically just a swimwear collection. But Eary had dark things on her mind—namely, the Irvine Welsh novel Maribou Stork Nightmares
. Without going too deep into the story, which is apparently pretty vicious, suffice to say that what Eary plumbed from it was a theme of woman-as-fantasy-sex-object. And so there was an interesting interplay between the ultra-sexy swimwear, like a maillot with sheer inserts and a fretted back, and the cloudy cover-up pieces, like a baby-doll-style top or capelet with a pussy-bow tie. The latter looks gave the collection, limited as it was, an ethereal, miragelike quality, helped along by the fact that Eary was so emphatic in the use of her print. Aside from the suits, for which Eary has an uncommon touch, the strongest piece here was a silk V-neck knit with bell sleeves; it was proposed as another poolside cover-up, but obviously could be put to everyday use. The sweater had a quality of true, insouciant, jet-set luxe, and it made you sorry there weren’t more versatile looks like it.