Louise Goldin's collections have been gaining in focus since she relaunched her label a year ago. This season was her strongest yet: Goldin deployed her signature technical knits to tell a very coherent story, one inspired by, as she put it, "summers with [her] husband." In practice, that meant a mash-up of ideas inspired by festivals such as Coachella (Goldin's husband works in the music industry) and others taken from tennis. The latter influence was apparent in an array of crisp white looks that referenced tennis-kit vintage and modern, and graphic knits conjuring the web of tennis racket faces and green grid courts.

All of this was cheerfully accessible, with the piped knits and cotton shirting making for particular standouts. But the most intriguing looks on the catwalk today may have been the musically inspired ones. Among these, Goldin brought a particularly keen sense of invention to a couple of abstractly patterned knit dresses based on pixelated photographs from Coachella. The knit itself was layered palimpsest-style, so that parts of the pattern below broke through the pattern on top, and the dresses themselves wrapped sinuously around the body in a seemingly unbroken stitch. That kind of innovation is a Goldin trademark, of course, but this season, working off intimate references, she at last seemed to be innovating in order to express something direct and heartfelt, rather than making the process the main point. Craft is good; love is better.