Marco de Vincenzo
September 22, 2013 Milan
Since his start on the runway four years ago, de Vincenzo has been fairly obsessed with texture and surface treatments. At times, his experiments with fabrics have felt belabored. That was less true this season than ever before, and the metallic macramé was just the beginning of the great-looking dresses here. The same slender silhouette with the side cutouts felt fresh for daytime in color-blocked lavender and gray perforated nylon; a shirtdress with heat-transferred crystals arranged in an ombré grid looked fun; and we're confident that we'll be seeing a stretch ribbed-knit style out and about next year. The fit was fantastic.
Leather pieces sliced on the diagonals to create graphic patterns were also worth calling out. Where the cuts were, the fused cotton backing showed through. De Vincenzo's collection was full of clever experiments like that. The sporty hoodies with drawstring detailing at the neck and hem may not be such a good fit for him, but that's a side note. There were plenty of other desirable things here.