You don't go to Marco de Vincenzo's show expecting to see the dress of the week. But the young Roman designer had a real contender in a cocktail number made from intersecting swatches of metallic blue and silver macramé with cutouts at the side and a high center slit. It had the feeling of a fabulous vintage find from the seventies but in thoroughly modern materials.
Since his start on the runway four years ago, de Vincenzo has been fairly obsessed with texture and surface treatments. At times, his experiments with fabrics have felt belabored. That was less true this season than ever before, and the metallic macramé was just the beginning of the great-looking dresses here. The same slender silhouette with the side cutouts felt fresh for daytime in color-blocked lavender and gray perforated nylon; a shirtdress with heat-transferred crystals arranged in an ombré grid looked fun; and we're confident that we'll be seeing a stretch ribbed-knit style out and about next year. The fit was fantastic.
Leather pieces sliced on the diagonals to create graphic patterns were also worth calling out. Where the cuts were, the fused cotton backing showed through. De Vincenzo's collection was full of clever experiments like that. The sporty hoodies with drawstring detailing at the neck and hem may not be such a good fit for him, but that's a side note. There were plenty of other desirable things here.
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