The first thing you saw when you walked into Martin Grant's presentation today was a bodysuit. Black, with a deep scoop in front and a racerback, it was made from a double-face acetate, the designer explained, so it sucks you in, lifts you up, and smooths you out. Just about everything a girl could ask for. Bodysuits were the foundation of the collection. Grant used one as the bodice of a party dress with black tulle skirts that blossomed on top of crinoline; another was teamed with a ball skirt in a graphic black and tan diamond jacquard of Grant's own design. The proportions looked just right.

Grant has made a success of himself with his responsiveness to clients' needs. Not every occasion calls for something clingy, he knows, so he had other options, the best among them an elegant short-sleeved black coat with crinoline at the hips. There was also an exceedingly well-cut sheath in tonal black jacquard. Grant's ambitions here weren't grand, but the collection's narrow focus ensured he was able to lavish his prodigious dressmaker's skills on each look. The intimate presentation on mannequins put those talents into sharp relief.