"There's no black at all," Misha Nonoo said of the hues in her latest collection. "The palette is very colorful." Colorful and sunny, like Nonoo's mood: The designer was feeling optimistic enough to stage her first runway show ("Lots of moving parts," she confided the day before) and energized about a collection influenced as much by the artist Gerhard Richter as by his works. "He's this great master who's so comfortable with himself and had the initiative to have fun with his craft," she said. "It really inspired me in terms of this season's woman."
The mood was certainly light, and the clothes were ready for runway exposure. Taking a cue from Richter's squeegee paintings, Nonoo played with the idea of leaving things half done, like pleating one side of a jacket or printing part of a pant and letting the rest just be. They were subtle tweaks you might have missed if you didn't know where to look, but they succeeded in striking a playful note. Nonoo thinks of Savile Row values as being at the core of her brand, and while she played with softening up tailored staples, the real heartbeat here was in the mix of materials and textures. A lavender silk crepe blazer worn with a glossy lamé tee and a pair of printed crepe de chine pants was winningly bedroom-boardroom: pj bottoms, last night's shirt, a chic blazer…just add heels and you're out the door! That relaxed attitude prevailed throughout, and the prints—a mix of florals and painterly abstractions—were a highlight. It's hard to find anything wrong with clothes this cheerful, and the few misses, like a pale green silk crepe dress that hung awkwardly on the model's frame and looked half done in an unfinished way, were absorbed in the sweetness of the whole.
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