Maison Rabih Kayrouz
September 29, 2013 Paris
To hear Kayrouz tell it, purity of form and fabric is most important to him, particularly this season. That idea might sound played out until you realize how much he has done with so little. For Spring, many of his looks were rooted in rectangles—most obviously, they appeared to cascade from skirts long and short. He placed a belt on the inside of various dresses and the result mimicked artful draping that had the added benefit of being easily adjustable. His dimensional knits were also rectangular if you extend the definition to the rolled tubular patterning built from a plastic thread base. As a horizontal stripe on a sculpted sweatshirt-style dress, the French knit was neither pure in form nor fabric—and yet it expressed Kayrouz's vision perfectly.
Kayrouz is at his weakest when he overthinks and overlayers, but he hardly did either today. His aim to create clothes for powerful women was captured in his choice of palest pink; only a commanding personality could make that her new neutral. As for the glinting pieces in silver, they were coated cotton and represented Kayrouz's way of expressing restrained glamour. Clearly, he enjoys taking a maximalist approach to minimalism—and it's an approach that serves him well.