There was nothing on the invitation that revealed this would be a video show comprised of six large screens, each capturing a different angle of the collection. Nicolas Andreas Taralis recruited Mote Sinabel Aoki to direct a five-minute film in which one male and one female model emerged, exited, and reemerged into a white realm where the depth of field seemed infinite. Compositionally, the video was flawless, and unlike at a runway show, Taralis drifted through the venue, witnessing people's reactions in real time.
There was just one minor issue: It was impossible to make out any details of the collection. Fabric, form, and how these two essential elements fit together were all lost within the film's ambient space. And so, we arranged a showroom visit, whereby the designer presented the pieces close-up and drew attention to all the concepts and workmanship that made this one of his strongest collections yet. Taralis, who was influenced by the artist Gordon Matta-Clark this season, explained that he pursued a purer, more sophisticated direction for Spring. The women's pieces were largely borrowed from menswear—quite literally, in some cases, where the designer styled a shirt as a dress or repurposed portions of a boxy jacket into one more tailored to the feminine form. The crux of the collection consisted of a tiered system whereby a fine-gauge polyamide underpinning might extend past the blouse, with the streamlined silhouette funneling out into generous trousers. Only in close-up—certainly not in the video—could the subtle gold stitching and unfinished edges be fully appreciated. The top layer of a double-fabric skirt looked like it was punctured in braille. Taralis will have no difficulty convincing buyers to order his stilettos secured with a thick leather ankle bracelet.
Back at the video presentation, Taralis noted how so much of our world today has become "dematerialized" and said he was determined to find another, nonlinear way of reading a collection. But clothing is material, and this collection was best seen and touched up close.
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