September 10, 2013 New York
Back to the beginning: Khan found inspiration in all things Latin this season, a sweeping landscape that was home to Frida Kahlo, flamenco dancers, Mexican churches, and the Moors. The models were crowned in Kahlo's signature headband braid (no unibrows), and the dresses dripped with vermilion roses. There were a few distinctly Spanish silhouettes—like an embroidered georgette peasant blouse and trumpet skirt—and a few distinctly Khan silhouettes, including a black-tie caftan with a floral cameo embroidery. Lace was used to beautiful effect here. On one strapless tulle gown it functioned as an embroidered print, a technique achieved by individually cutting and hand-sewing each piece. "It's almost like couture," Khan said. It certainly looked decadent, and was proof that a gorgeous gown doesn't need lots of feathers and finery to make a statement. This collection was feather-free, but it wasn't lacking for finery. One paillette-covered tee-and-trumpet-skirt look was so drippy with beads it provided its own clinking soundtrack. And, toward the finale, a few of the taffeta tufted and metallic beaded dresses looked positively heavy with decoration. But that's a quibble. Khan showed considerable restraint overall, and when he didn't, the result was still worth the weight.