Alessandro Dell'Acqua has sent his gal packing for Spring. She's off on holiday, or pretending she is, with a tropical-print bowling shirt, a dense wool jacket with hibiscus-shaped cutouts, and even a white piqué polo. The tropics are trending in the wake of Miuccia Prada's Menacing Paradise menswear collection, which she showed back in June. We don't suppose we've seen the last palm tree of the season. For No. 21, Dell'Acqua put his own stamp on the look by mashing up womenswear with menswear. There wasn't a sarong to be seen on his runway today, and nothing water-ready either. Rather, it was his familiar mix of boy and girl: a boxy bonded leather shirt worn with an embroidered lace pencil skirt; a double-breasted blazer, one side of which was encrusted in a delicate swirl of beads.

Lingerie has been essential to the Dell'Acqua look since long before he lost the rights to his name, so it was something of a surprise that the sheer dresses and their sloppy layered underpinnings were the weak link in his show today. Much better was a crisp blue cotton poplin men's shirt, just long enough to be a dress, with a hem dripping in jet—it had an easy sex appeal that telegraphed the getaway feel Dell'Acqua was going for.