September 11, 2013
Gemstones have a lot going for them. They're brightly colored, simultaneously transparent and opaque, made up of interesting angles, and coveted, pretty much universally, by the fairer sex. Oskar Metsavaht's Spring collection was an ode to them: a tightly focused exploration of sharp angles, sheer layers, and brightly saturated solid colors. The styling was a little gimmicky—the models' gemstone clutches and heels matched their outfits, and a few wore matching, faceted sunglasses—but the quality of the fabric was clear and the tailoring clean. An all-white look in crepe was crisp and refreshing—a very cropped top layered over a long tunic was worn over attenuated pants. Simple and sophisticated. Later layered looks in black and white silk looked like elegant geometry problems—square tops over angled tops that turned square skirts into triangles. Sounds tricky, but it looked very easy. One of the collection's two prints—neon bright gemstones on a black background—was graphic and fun (Metsavaht arranged minerals in the shapes of pineapples and palm trees, then photographed them), but it was cheapened by the addition of clear plastic layers. Ditto that same print later on, now in neutrals and printed on a special vegetable-dyed eco silk. The hard plastic layering pieces were out of place and unnecessary. Strip them off and you'd be left with something cool and covetable.