It can't be easy finding different ways to manipulate and maintain interest in bows season after season. Yet Serge Cajfinger always manages to give the Paule Ka signature a new twist. For Spring, he made bows out of his short shirt sleeves by splitting the poplin and extending both sides just enough so they could be tied. It was a cute and clever maneuver that brought the eye down the arm in the same way an epaulet signals attention to the shoulder. Often, these bow sleeves took pride of place on cropped blouses—yes, Paule Ka has arrived fashionably late to that trend. At least they looked freshly styled over body-con dresses.

The other big bow news took place as a trompe l'oeil on the bodice of a cocktail dress; its two sides had been dislodged so that it barely resembled a bow at all. It's just too bad the hazy color-blocked print inspired by the ceramics of Vallauris made this difficult to appreciate. That print appeared on several other occasions joined by a black and white graphic pattern and an abstracted exotic flower photoprint. Any two were a couple; all three were a crowd.

Elsewhere, the collection consisted of roomy spring coats—the standout in sandy raffia with piqué paneled lapels—and belted shirtdresses that had more personality than conventionally sexy cutout styles. Sunglasses with wooden arms and wicker paneling on the Cabas Ka bag seemed too forced—and unbending—to qualify as material innovation. Still, this was a solid showing all around.