Natalie Ratabesi's latest Philosophy
collection was nothing if not serene. There were lots of all-white outfits, an emphasis on diaphanous constructions, and a whiff of loungewear in the robes and pajamalike looks. It was enough to send you drifting off to sleep. That's a compliment, actually: Ratabesi really captured a tone, and the tone just happened to be Valium-level chill. But it paid to stay alert in order to catch the collection's handful of very winning pieces, such as the bibbed, band-collared button-downs, the wispy bias-cut skirts, and a couple of crisp, empire-waist, structured sundresses. There were a few ungainly looks as well—the lime green strapless gown on Sam Rollinson, for instance. But the real weaknesses of this collection were likely attributable to the fact that Ratabesi, on the job for a year now, is still gaining her confidence at the helm. There was a sense of what-might-have-been here: A little camisole with string suspended coyly along the cleavage was suggestive, with its nineties vibe and silhouette. Philosophy was such an iconic nineties brand, this seemed like a missed opportunity to make that connection more strongly, as the era is gaining runway relevance again. Still, Ratabesi does have a feel for that original Philosophy sense of calm.