October 01, 2013 Paris
The fruit was one element to emerge from the Brazilian designer's random trio of inspirations: Carmen Miranda, nudity à la Marisa Berenson, and the recent Dynamo exhibition at the Grand Palais that focused on kinetic contemporary art. Literal interpretations could have ended badly. But Lourenço is smarter than that, which is why the shimmering optical illusion he used to imply nudity was far more sensual than any exposure of skin. While the aforementioned pineapple and ruffled "basques" were metaphorically Miranda, the latter had a tendency to complicate Lourenço's clean silhouettes. Conversely, the dégradé effect he spent months developing took shape as a faultless silvery sequin-embroidered tulle skirt. It was ample proof that technical obsession can be rewarded accordingly.