If you survived the mad crush at the doors at Philipp Plein
, and endured the hour-long wait for the show to start, you were rewarded with a fairly energizing performance of "Work" by Iggy Azalea and her two backup dancers. The runway show that followed wasn't short on sass of its own. The lace jeans weren't a print, like we've seen elsewhere this week, but actually sheer, skintight lace. Cutouts on a crocheted tank formed the shape of a skull (sure, it's been co-opted by just about everyone, but a cranium still provokes—just ask McQueen's Sarah Burton). And a crystal-embroidered column gown was emblazoned with what Plein's program called one of his most provocative slogans. It's unprintable here, but let's just say that the F-word appeared no less than three times. That certainly got your attention. At this point, Plein seems satisfied with making a spectacle, and he tried plenty of different tactics to do so: exposing skin (as alluded to above), riffing on icons of other houses (Givenchy's stars, in this case), employing all manner of flashy metallics, studded baby blue leather included. You can see this brand maturing into something along the sexy, in-your-face lines of Just Cavalli, even if Plein still has a ways to go to get there.