September 26, 2013 Paris
Today, Dossena demonstrated an understanding of the Rabanne codes—name-checking Françoise Hardy and Jane Birkin, using chain mail and Rabanne's signature "moulé Giffo" molded plastic—but he has a light touch. Take that chain mail, for instance. The potential for cliché is pretty high, but Dossena made it look modern by layering sporty unzipped tank dresses on top. It's a bit tougher to make the shiny molded plastic feel new and not retro-stiff, but Dossena did his best by cutting the dresses super-short and sending them down the runway on pointy cowboy flats.
Dossena worked at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière, and from him, perhaps, he learned that it takes more to rebrand a heritage company than updating the archives. It requires new propositions. The sporty dresses at the end of the show were a cool reinterpretation of the seen-it-everywhere bomber jacket. Pink overalls, meanwhile, weren't anything like vintage Rabanne, but they did look like what girls want to wear now. That counts for a lot.